Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to discover these narratives and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
